![]() They are more efficient and reliable then mechanical or solenoid systems, and have the reputation as the most comprehensive line of Battery Isolators on the market.įor optimum system performance it is recommended that a battery labeled "Deep Cycle" be used in the auxiliary position. Specifically designed to exceed OEM Specifications, they are equipped with Solid-State Electronics, which isolate each battery circuit and allows each battery to discharge and charge according to its own needs. They perform as well or battery then existing factory installed components. Multi-Battery Isolators are used to eliminate multi-battery drain when two or more battery banks are in a charging system. Sure Power Multi-Battery Isolators are the original Battery Isolator, and still the best on the market. It does not happen at a very fast rate, even connected together for a couple of days shouldn't be a problem unless there are other problems in the system.Sure Power Battery Isolator 120 Amp | 1-Input, 2-Output | Multi-Battery Isolator | Group 2 Long term if there is any resistance in the hot and ground side cabling and they are connected directly together then the batteries can spiral into a self-discharge mode. What ever you do will probably want to maintain that functionality. The goal of that lump on the cable is to disconnect the battery when the airbag system sees a blow to that region of the car. In those cases you'll likely already have the hood open.ĭoes the Volvo have the disconnector in one of battery cables like the BMW wagons (with the battery in nearly the same place) do? If so that may present a problem that needs some thinking. The only instances that I can see where you would set the switch to "both" is winching or being need of a jump-start. the battery that it is not connected to directly) has reached a full charge state. Then the only method of connecting both batteries directly together is through the VSR, which disconnects when the charging system stops charging and does not re-connect until the primary battery (i.e. In normal operation it is not a problem as the switch is set on either "1" or "2", not "both" and neither battery can 'see' the other. It does not happen at a very fast rate, even connected together for a couple of days shouldn't be a problem unless there are other problems in the system. Any help will be appreciated.Ĭlick to expand.Long term if there is any resistance in the hot and ground side cabling and they are connected directly together then the batteries can spiral into a self-discharge mode. What is that for?Īppologies again for being a complete novice. Is it ok?Ĥ) It seems there is to be a manual switch. I'm just copying numbers, I don't know what to make of any of that. using a color photo printer sometimes.)Ģ) Is it appropriate to mount the 2nd battery and thisolator gizmo in a ventilated metal box on a rear cargo carrier? Can I combine functions and add a propane cylinder in the same box, and do I need to partition the inside into two compartments?ģ) My vehichle alternator spec is for 160 amps, but the amp spec for the Hellroaring unit says max current 95 amps continuous, 150 amps for 20 sec, and 250 amps for 50 ms. ![]() each night, running a 6 amp bedwarmer at 50% some nights, possibly a 1.4 amp fan in a Heatsource some nights, or a regular fan some other nights, and I don't know what else. Is that what you use? If that's right so far, I have some follow up questions.ġ) Is this plan overkill for me, or do I need a second battery? Whats a reasonable size (charging a laptop 4 hrs/day, charging several camera batteries, phone, and misc. it looks like I would want the BIC-951950B, to isolate my 2nd battery for non-engine starting loads. The BIC-95300B is most suitable for the Backup battery setup. The BIC-95150B is suitable for the Auxiliary battery setup or the Start side isolation method. "Hellroaring BIC FAQ - Our BIC-95150B and BIC-95300B units are the most current version.
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